ETA regarding commissions at bottom.
Any self-respecting Doctor Who fan can tell you what a TARDIS is. It's a blue box. It's bigger on the inside. It's Time And Relative Dimension In Space. It's not just a time machine. It's a spaceship, too.
Now you can be nerdy and keep your hands warm while doing so! Isn't that brilliant? Fantastic, even!
Adapted from a visual of
someone else's TARDIS wristwarmers, I bring you my version.
Here's the Ravelry page if you want to queue it up.
The pattern:
Notes:
· This pattern is written to be worked in the round at first, then flat. You can, if you find it easier, work the whole thing flat; I just like doing the cuff in the round.
· The chart is worked in a Fair Isle method rather than intarsia. If you prefer, you can work the wristwarmers in blue all the way and then duplicate stitch the chart.
Materials:
· 100 yards worsted weight yarn in a blue of your choice. The yarn I used is royal blue, more reminiscent of the Eleventh Doctor’s TARDIS.
· 25 yards worsted weight yarn, black
· 25 yards worsted weight yarn, white
· 40” size US #3/3.25mm circular needle
· OR 1 set of DPNs size US #3/3.25mm
· Stitch markers if you need them (I found they kind of got in the way/interfered with the Fair Isle)
Gauge:
5.5 sts/7 rows = 1” in stockinette stitch. Make sure you do a gauge swatch!
Size:
Adjustable to the size/length of your palm. I have the squarest hands in the universe so the mockup of this pattern is very short from wrist to knuckle.
To achieve the correct size, measure around your wrist, around your palm above your thumb, and from your wrist to the base of your middle finger.
The pattern is given for these measurements:
Wrist: 7.5in/19cm
Palm: 8.5in/21.5cm
Wrist to base of finger: 4in/10.16cm
If your palm is wider, you can add stitches onto either side of the chart.
If your palm is longer, you can add more rows of blue in between the cuff and windows, windows and “police box,” “police box” and ribbing, or add more rows of ribbing at the end. It is entirely up to you! OR, since the windows in the design are rather square, you can add two rows by lengthening the windows to achieve a more “authentic” look.
Abbreviations:
CO: cast on
k: knit
p: purl
sts: stitches
rnd: round
pm: place marker
MC: main color (blue)
C1: color one (white)
C2: color two (black)
BO: bind off
Instructions:
CO 48 sts, 12 sts on each needle. Join in round, being careful not to twist sts.
Work in 2x2 rib for 14 rows.
Rnd 1-3: k even.
Begin working flat.
Row 4: p even.
Row 5: k even.
Row 6: p 7, pm, p 34, pm, p7
Rows 7-26: Work chart between the markers, using Fair Isle and stranding the yarn along the back.
Rows 27-28: work two rows even in blue
If you prefer a stockinette edge, continue in stockinette until the desired length is achieved, then BO, leaving a tail of at least twelve inches.
Otherwise, work 2x2 ribbing until desired length is achieved, then BO, leaving a tail of at least twelve inches.
Finishing:
Weave in all strands except the tail from the BO. Use this tail to seam together the edges at the top, down to wherever is comfortable for your hand. Weave in the end of that tail, and you’re finished!
Happy knitting!
ETA: Several people have inquired about commissioning a pair of these. I am by no means saying I won't take commissions, but bear in mind that I am a college student and school is my number one priority. If you don't mind waiting for these (especially as spring is approaching), feel free to drop me a line at katzpotter@hotmail.com and we can discuss this further. :-)
In short: I do commissions on a case-by-case basis depending on my current workload.